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I take the nose off and then put the tie downs in place.

Carbon dating of SRFs: I bought 692 as a Ford kit in late 1993.

Carbon Dating:
579 1991
Steve Fenske might be able to narrow it down some. Came out of his shop.

Kim at Enterprises (KHudson@scca.com) should be able to help you. She was able to look up my #678 and tell me that it was built in 1994, although that conflicts with Steve's later chassis number being built earlier in 1993.
-Dave

razerx wrote:Kim at Enterprises (KHudson@scca.com) should be able to help you. She was able to look up my #678 and tell me that it was built in 1994, although that conflicts with Steve's later chassis number being built earlier in 1993.
-Dave

i can assure you that 692 was ordered in early December 1993 and parts started showing up around February 94. Back in the early Ford days there were a lot of partially shipped kits, mine included.

We use a 27' trailer which we load 2 bicycles, 1 golf kart, awnings, chairs gas cans, etc.and the SRF.

Like several others, we back the car in for clearance between to Golf kart and the SRF. In the front we use a 6' nylon strap which goes just behind the front vertical tubes then to the floor mounted eyes using a ratchet tie downs. After the car is secured, we place the nose back on the SRF. WE Added E trac in several places to secure the tool cabinet and the awnings, air compressor, and the chassis alignment gauge. E trac on the walls as well as several places on the floor.

We have heard war stories about tire racks. So when we built ours, we drilled through wall of the trailer and through the vertical braces and used button head bolts to make sure the rack and 8 tires did not fall on the car. { I screwed up when we built the tire rack, why you asked, well, I forgot to rotate the 1 1/2" box tubing to the angle of the tires siting in the rack. Yup a nice little crease. So I will have to add & weld in a light angle iron to rest the tires }

I just bought a 7x16 last weekend. Bringing it to NHMS next weekend and bringing my car home for the first time. Motion Dynamics has been great to me, but it's time to be on my own.

I'll apply the trailering tips I've read here and let you know how it goes.
For those who tie to the front of the frame, do you just lay the nose back over everything, or stand it up against a wall and secure it. I may go from the front floor d-rings to the roll bar, and rear d-rings to the frame.

I've never taken the nose off to tie down the front; you just have to lay on the floor of the trailer sometimes.

[attachment=0]image.jpg[/attachmentI have a 7 x 14 with a 3 foot v nose enclosed trailer, it's a tight fit but it was my kart trailer before I got the SRF. Clearance issue is going through rear door about 3 inches both sides, use electric wench mounted to roll bar for loading and unloading. I just unhook the nose so it can float during loading and tie down, it makes reaching in under the front easier. I have enough room to lay down in front and make hook up, helps to have long skinny arms. Always keep the trailer with the nose higher so gravity keeps the wench line tight. I moved the front D-rings forward for better loading options, adjusting weight balance. With the rear engine there was too much rear weight until I moved the car forward about 1.5 feet from the rear door. Swaying problem solved, if there is not enough room you could try loading backwards. Space is at a premium so creative ideas on loading become normal. Sorry for poor quality photo web site won't accept from my phone file size is too big.
Good luck. Griff Goad

Griff,
Hard to see for certain from your pic, but it looks like you have the strap over a suspension piece (LCA probably). If at all possible, avoid this. I used to strap around the front like this on my open trailer and you can slot the strap around the frame members so that it puts no pressure on any suspension piece.
I highly recommend that if you can pull it off.
Denny