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Pat - I had an interference fit. I took a grinder to the flange and then finished it off with a belt sander. Mine started out with gaps in the mating flanges. There was no leakage because of the way it's sealed inside at the factory. After finishing with the sander I filled in any remaining gaps in the flange with superglue just in case. You have to look close to see anything has been trimmed but it is visible with a close inspection. I now have about a 1/16 of an inch clearance!!!!! I hope that's enough.

With my intake installed, I have about 3/16 of an inch between the intake and the standard sheet metal covering my seat belt ladder. In that area, however, there is no frame work directly behind the sheet metal, so the intake would hit against sheet metal that will give a bit if the engine rocks forward.

DaveP

Wow, that doesn't seem to leave much room for error. Bill was there any evidence of rubbing on the manifold after your race? Did you measure the distance to the front of both the right and left engine mounts prior to installation? From what I understand it needs to be about 11 1/8 to 11 1/4 on the right and ll 3/8 to 11 1/2 on the left side (from the main 1.5 inch Horizontal cross member). Other wise the mounts might be needed to be moved back. Mine are 11 1/8 and 11 3/8. Hope, I don't need to move them. Guess the only way to know is to try to install the engine. I was hoping we would have more room to install and change engines because of slightly smaller displacement.

I haven't done any measurement on the motor mounts other than I know it was to low because I bent the v sq tube on the bottom down of the frame 1/4" for clearance. At the time I wasn't thinking about motor mount locations being incorrect. As far as the first race, I did it without a cover on the shoulder harness ladder. With no cover I still needed to grind some off. Once I fabricated a thin cover I didn't have any clearance left so I took some more off. There is plenty of room with the manifold off but zero room with it on when installing the motor. In retrospect, if I had known the motor mount dimensions I might have changed them first. At the time I was one of the first "regular customers" posting on the install so I didn't know any better If I were you I might float it in the engine bay without the transmission and hook up the two motor mounts to get a feel for clearance.

Bill, I have the new shorter left mount so I don't think I will have a clearance problem on the left side to the lower diagonal bar, but my top right mount is too low according to the specs. I will have to do something about that one, so it doesn't rub on the lower bar. Will test fit the engine, but might try and hook up the trany also to make sure. I don't see anything in the manual relating to the upper mounts position from the the front. I got those figures from Elite and perhaps the manual should include them for us rookies.

I also didn't see where we connect the black wire from the fan, which I assume is the ground. Could you check to see where you made the connection. Perhaps it doesn't matter, but it definitely isn't long enough to attach it to the new rear ground location on the left side.

I haven't taken off the intake manifold, and that looks like reinstalling it with the engine in might be a challenge. Any hints, so as to avoid any problems? Thanks Pat

Pat - All but one nut on the manifold are not bad. The one in the center on the bottom is an SOB. You just put the 10mm ratchet wrench on it and tighten about 1/32 a revolution per swing. Keep a finger tip on the ratchet otherwise you will make no progress with no friction on the nut. This is done with the alternator off.
What ever I did with the fan wire may not be correct because I never did see the fan run, but I think it went to switched side of the master switch. That I would have to look at! If I remember correctly it also hooks into the ECU harness for temp control. Just remember I'm about as old as you and my memory is fading, I'm just not as old as Hal B, but almost as skinny I think
After looking I have confirmed I have a questionable memory. I did ground the black wire

Pat,

If you want some ideas on the right side engine mount, send me an email. pheteplace (at) aol (dot) com

DaveP

Thanks Dave! Email sent!

Wow, that doesn't seem to leave much room for error. Bill was there any evidence of rubbing on the manifold after your race? Did you measure the distance to the front of both the right and left engine mounts prior to installation? From what I understand it needs to be about 11 1/8 to 11 1/4 on the right and ll 3/8 to 11 1/2 on the left side (from the main 1.5 inch Horizontal cross member). Other wise the mounts might be needed to be moved back. Mine are 11 1/8 and 11 3/8. Hope, I don't need to move them. Guess the only way to know is to try to install the engine. I was hoping we would have more room to install and change engines because of slightly smaller displacement.

Mike Davies: Would you post what dimensions are important or critical on the upper engine mount and the upper tranny mount from the front cross member? A range or whatever is appreciated. Thanks!

Mark,

The measurement to the inside of the front of the right bracket from the 1 ½ inch frame tube is 11 1/8 inches on my car. The left side is 11 3/8 inches. The right side bracket holes are 1.75 inches above the 1 ½ inch frame. The aluminum cover on my seat belt ladder sticks out about 1/8 of an inch from the frame. With these measurements, I still have 3/16 of an inch clearance between the intake manifold and the seat belt cover (without removing any material from the intake).

If your measurements are less than this, you are more likely to have clearance problems.

DaveP