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More lessons learned. I am about 30 hours in with 30 hours to go. I think I could do a second engine in 40 hours or less.

I am still doing my install (slowly) as I have been traveling and busy over the last 7 weeks. I am still learning new things as I continue to do the install. Some of that is as follows.

The oil filter rests right up against the gas filler tube when the engine is installed. It will be extremely difficult and messy to change the oil filter if it is left in that location. A resolution is to use your remote oil filter adapter from the Gen2. If you put the adapter parts on before installing the engine, it will be easier. See the below picture for one of the potential mounting options for the filter. I do not think you need to clock the fuel filler neck on the fuel cell if you move the oil filter (but check it out).

If you are going to use the riv-nuts for the fuel regulator and fuel filter installs, make sure you install the riv-nuts before putting in the engine or you will not be able to get the tools into the space. BTW, a good riv-nut installer tool available on Amazon is the Astro Pneumatic 1442 for $65.

I ended up taking the shifter shaft to a vendor that makes custom wrought iron railings. They did a perfect job of bending the shaft for $35 (as would be expected given their expertise).

It is much easier to do the electrical conversion using Enterprises new power wire harness kit than rebuilding the old harness. It probably also weighs less than what you would rebuild yourself. The under-the-dash wiring can be simplified using some wire, ring terminals and shrink tubing. Instead of using a terminal block, I ganged the positive switched leads off of the ignition switch with a short screw/nut to hook up the positive (and negative) leads from the various instruments.

Be careful in threading the 8 an to pipe thread adapter into the oil cooler. The threads in the oil cooler are sharp and may gouge/ mis-thread aluminum adapters. Consider using steel adapters from Enterprises if yours are aluminum.

That’s all for now. Probably more later. Make sure you read through the instructions a few time before you start the install and ask questions when you are not sure.

DaveP

Interesting idea about the remote oil filter adapter Dave, but I would be concerned that it is non-spec for the Gen3 and the oil filter would be a different one that is spec'd. for our Gen3 as well.
I am sure your idea will elicit comments soon...

Hi Mark,

Enterprises is aware of the idea and will probably soon officially condone it. Others have done it (not my original idea) and my CSR, the La Rues, have said to go ahead. The adapter does fit the Gen3 oil filter exactly.

If you have not already seen the situation, it is a must do. Once you put the intake manifold on, it will be near impossible to get to the oil filter for removal. I put the engine in, saw the situation and decided to put in the adapter while the intake manifold was still off. I had a heck of a time removing the filter to put on the adapter. As you unscrew the filter, it backs into the gas filler tube making the situation even worse. Fortunately, I had not yet riveted the other end of the filler tube housing to the frame, so I was able to move it around to get the filter out.

I am hopeful that this will be approved.

DaveP

For sure, I'll be going with the remote filter. The other thing is that if you prefer to pre-fill the filter that's impossible with the filter mounted horizontally.

Very good Dave! Glad it is being considered and very glad guys like you share this info with those of us who are slowly doing the same conversion. After I read your post and saved it for future reference, I went to my Gen2 boxes of stuff and fished out the oil filter remote. Now I have to rescue the adapter off the engine
If anyone hears more, keep us informed! Thanks again Dave!

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/ass ... strack.pdf

G. OIL FILTER LOCATION
As delivered, alternate location by approval only.


I. 22. Oil Filter: P/N FL910-S ONLY Motorcraft

(says 901 as published...typo corrected going forward)

You will use the spec filter, you will need to get our approval (its really intended for CSR's to have a standard kit, not everyone and their brother to re-plumb the engine), and you won't get any bearing related warranty (not seeming to be any issue at all with GEN3's) if you don't build it our way. I've seen dozens of cars running just as the manual says / shows...nothing impossible about it; it fits if you do everything with the fuel hose clocking correctly. Messy...probably yes; when you change filters. We kept the plumbing direct and simple, it does appear the engines oiling system is extremely robust, like the 1.9L's was or better. Enough so that any engine with a bearing failure will be looked at for installation / operation error as the highly likely issue.

As Don Knotts (Barney Fife) said, "Nip it, Nip it, nip it". Thanks Erik for straightening this out.

Erik Skirmants wrote:...extremely robust, like the 1.9L's was...

Gone and soon forgotten.

H.(it was a good ride)B.

If you wants to do the oil filter conversion, talk to your CSR.

DaveP

Left engine mounts. Talked to Nikki at Enterprises. They do have a shorter left upper engine/tranny bracket (1/4 inch shorter) and a new lower left tranny bracket that has some adjustability to it. So if you have a problem, they have a solution.

At 1/8 of an inch tilt to the left on my engine, I would end up with 1/8 of an inch tilt to the right, so I think I will leave it where it is.

I am also posting this on the other string of Gen3 conversion tips.

DaveP