Random conversion questions.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:58 pm
I would say if you can see some data you have it wired correct in terms of the 12V power. I have in the past had problems communicating with the ECU. On occasions it took 3 or 4 tries. With the latest software listed in prior posts here, it has not been a problem.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 5:36 pm
+1 ^

I've had varied issues getting my laptop to see the ECU, but never a problem getting the dash to see it. I'd have to check when I get home, but I believe that with ignition switch on and engine not running, I get Water and Oil temps on the dash.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 7:28 am
srf99 wrote:+1 ^

I've had varied issues getting my laptop to see the ECU, but never a problem getting the dash to see it. I'd have to check when I get home, but I believe that with ignition switch on and engine not running, I get Water and Oil temps on the dash.


I got the PE app to see recognize the ECU. Like you said, it just took a couple of attempts. Soooo, now that I have the connection, what do I do? I thought there would be a reference to calibrating TPS.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 9:18 am
Calibrate the TPS, then let the car go through its warm up cycle. After that, you should be good to go.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 12:08 pm
GregCirillo wrote:
srf99 wrote:+1 ^

I've had varied issues getting my laptop to see the ECU, but never a problem getting the dash to see it. I'd have to check when I get home, but I believe that with ignition switch on and engine not running, I get Water and Oil temps on the dash.


I got the PE app to see recognize the ECU. Like you said, it just took a couple of attempts. Soooo, now that I have the connection, what do I do? I thought there would be a reference to calibrating TPS.


I my version of the software, there is a simple graphical routine for TPS setup.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:03 pm
For everyone's benefit, here's what Nikki at Enterprises gave me as guidance:

Make sure that the master switch and the ignition switch are on and you are connected from your pc to your download port.

You will then want to make sure that your PE software is open on your pc.

Next we need to establish a connection. You will do this by clicking on the engine tab at the top of your screen. Under the engine tab choose find ecu, or quick find. Either works. A window will appear (depending on which option you choose)asking direct or networked. Choose direct.
You will most likely have a window appear that will state along the lines of ecu found, expecting v37.....found v35 (possibly). If it gives you the message of ECU found and nothing further we can skip a few steps. If you received that message skip the next section .....

Updating firmware.....

Under the help tab choose update firmware. A window appears. There are two tabs, update p1 and p2.

You can do either first, out of habit and maybe some OCD Mike and I do p1 first. You will then most likely have to choose the browse option to locate the file. It will most likely populate with peb. (there may be a little more to this, going from memory and no pe software in front of me) this is the correct file. It will take a few seconds for it to begin. As it updates your screen will have a few one line messages and then a lot of ......... when it completes the update, it will say update success. Then choose update p2. File search bar should already have the peb location in it. Once the update has been done to both p1 and p2, close that window and on the upper right of the screen click on the save to ecu button. You will then need to turn the master off and wait five to ten seconds. Power up the ecu again, and reconnect.

If you had the message ECU found with no other wording the first time....start here!!
Once connected, under the file tab choose open tuning file from PC. Browse for the map that you had previously saved. A window will appear asking if you want to send the info to the ECU. Choose yes. You will then want to again save the info to the ECU.

We now need to set the TPS. You will want to do this from the rear of the car, this will ensure that full throttle is in fact being set, even if the throttle cable may not be exact.

Under the engine tab choose quick calibrate TPS. A window again appears. There are three tabs, tps open, tps closed and done. To begin with, make sure that there is no throttle input from the throttle body or pedal. Choose tps closed. Click on done. Window will disappear, click on the save info to ecu again. Once again under the engine tab choose the quick calibrate tps option. This time, hold full throttle at the throttle body and simultaneously click on tps open. Then click on done and then save to ecu again.

Your TPS is now set and you are ready to start your car. You will want to let it do a full warm up cycle ( reaching a water temperature of 190-195) with no throttle input. You may notice a change in RPM and this is normal, your ecu is calibrating its offset. If you experience any issues please call us.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:56 am
PS: After a phone consultation with Mike Davies (Thanks!) it appears to be an idle air control valve problem. Known good part is on the way. Fingers crossed.

UPDATE: Solved! Test session on Sunday. Fingers still crossed.

PS: I'm sure those of you running SRF-3s already know this, but I learned yesterday how important it is to have the aluminum coolant tank FULL whenever you run the car. Even an inch below the top can impact cooling That's something to check before every session.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 4:07 pm
GregCirillo wrote:PS: After a phone consultation with Mike Davies (Thanks!) it appears to be an idle air control valve problem. Known good part is on the way. Fingers crossed.

UPDATE: Solved! Test session on Sunday. Fingers still crossed.


I had the same problem with no idle after start-up. Again, during a phone session with Mike Davies, we discovered that the IAC was not responding to input from the PE Monitor's IAC idle speed control slider. A quick trip to the local Advance Auto Parts and a new IAC was installed. Idles now. Tonight I'll idle it up to about 200 degrees and save the Idle Offset Setting and it should be good to go.

Apparently, there are a number of older IACs that, while they'll function well on the 1.9, are not up to operating on the 1.6.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 5:50 pm
Bob Devol wrote:...
Apparently, there are a number of older IACs that, while they'll function well on the 1.9, are not up to operating on the 1.6.


We've been seeing a lot of original IACs fail lately after years w/o having problems, maybe they've exceeded their service life.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:52 am
Bob's Message:


"I had the same problem with no idle after start-up. Again, during a phone session with Mike Davies, we discovered that the IAC was not responding to input from the PE Monitor's IAC idle speed control slider. A quick trip to the local Advance Auto Parts and a new IAC was installed"

Bob, do you have a part # from Advance Auto? I want to toss one into my spare parts box. Any other parts #'s for spare items I should have is greatly appreciated, as I do mostly regional races with no CSR support. It would also be nice to be able to go to local parts store or Ford dealership in a pinch, if one fails.

As far as parts look up goes, what model of car does this engine come out of, for such things as sending unit sensors, relays etc? For some reason I believe the engines come outside of USA.

We did have idle problems, but the new software seems to take care of it except for one annoying situation. The car quits when you come in from a session. Could this be a IAC problem? If not has anyone else had this problem?



Thanks! Pat
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