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Has anyone written up an engine removal procedure for the Gen 3 engine. OR do you just try and use the assembly manual backwards?
Anyone got any tips or first hand experience they would like to pass on?
Thanks for any help.
Bob K

After trying a number of variations, the approach that seemed to work well was to remove the coolant tank and its support bracket, leaving the intake manifold in place, removing the alternator, headers, and only that wiring and hoses necessary to pull the engine. We have disconnected engine from the transmission, but some have mentioned that they have successfully pulled the engine/trans in one piece, so that may shorten the process (not sure that's possible with the intake on, however.)

breton wrote:After trying a number of variations, the approach that seemed to work well was to remove the coolant tank and its support bracket, leaving the intake manifold in place, removing the alternator, headers, and only that wiring and hoses necessary to pull the engine. We have disconnected engine from the transmission, but some have mentioned that they have successfully pulled the engine/trans in one piece, so that may shorten the process (not sure that's possible with the intake on, however.)

We installed my GEN3 engine with transmission attached using and engine leveler and it went well. The intake manifold was off at that time.

We'll be pulling the engine to repair the transmission and install the new clutch when that's available. I'm figuring we can reverse the installation process with intake manifold on with a couple of spotters to carefully steady the engine. I would recommend against pulling or installing the engine with manifold on if there's no one to spot it. That's one pricey manifold to be whacking into the firewall!

Thanks for the info. I attempt the engine with the trans attached method.
I agree that removing the intake is a very wise idea.

What new clutch??? A new design, or just a replacement clutch.
I have a very early upgrade and I have never liked the clutch.

The main problem has been the clutch disk itself. The center section tends to crack as there's no give between within the disk (a traditional clutch plate usually has springs which offer some cushioning when engaging the clutch.) The cost of the disk is also exhorbitant (more than half the cost of the entire clutch assembly. Anytime you remove the motor you should remove and inspect the disk for cracking. We, fortunately, caught the cracking on the last motor change before a complete failure; others have not been so lucky!

I removed the engine& Trans in one piece. 4 hours with help from experienced SRF driver. I removed the intake, exhaust, collant tank, shocks and upper rockers. Figure it will take 6 hours to get it back together and ready to run.

Bob K wrote:What new clutch??? A new design, or just a replacement clutch.
I have a very early upgrade and I have never liked the clutch.

It's a new dampered design with easier take up, less shock to the drivetrain and probably less likely to crack when removed or installed. In testing now. Coming very soon.

Can you define "Coming very soon" .
Last time I asked my wife what that really meant she threw something at me and I never asked again.

Like maybe February????

Bob K wrote:Can you define "Coming very soon" .
Last time I asked my wife what that really meant she threw something at me and I never asked again.

Like maybe February????

Don't hold me to it, but my understanding is that it will be between now and late November. Again, that's based on some fuzzy replies I've gotten regarding release date. I do know that Enterprises is doing rigorous testing on production line pieces so that appears to be taking some time.

Thanks,
That timetable works for me.