Bracketology Gen3 Style

Check out the latest version of the Spec Racer! LBoth ligher weight and more powerful!!! Available soon, racing in 2015!

Needs a Life!!!
Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 10:09 am
PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 4:08 pm
The current manual states that the upper right engine mount should have holes drilled between 1.625" and 1.75" above the top of the upper frame rail.

I'm not sure these are the dimensions I need. The distance I would like to know is how far above the braces at the bottom engine bay to the holes of the top bracket on the upper frame do I need that will insure I have the proper clearance for the shift linkage at the bottom of the engine

Then from there, how far above the lower braces should the holes be for the upper left transmission mount be to insure that the engine/transmission unit will be level in the engine bay?

If I place a piece of plywood in the engine bay on the braces then I can measure up to the brackets and locate the holes properly the first time.

This method would help eliminate differnces in the chassis over the years by suppling us with the critical dimensions to insure the proper clearances and a level engine.

Any thoughts?
Molly Ivians wrote of George W Bush

"He was born on third base and thought he hit a triple!"

I was born in the parking lot with an empty wallet and no ticket to the game.

Needs a Life!!!
Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 10:09 am
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 12:15 pm
Ok I would like to try this again

If a few people who have gen 3 conversions and have the car on jacks could please measure from the top of the lower forward facing braces to the base of the oil pan so I can get an idea of the clearance needed so the shift linkage works properly I would appreciate it

Thanks in advance
Molly Ivians wrote of George W Bush

"He was born on third base and thought he hit a triple!"

I was born in the parking lot with an empty wallet and no ticket to the game.

Ready to Write a Book
Ready to Write a Book
Posts: 77
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:45 pm
Location: Oregon
Chassis:
404
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 12:45 pm
Lee, I followed the advice of others who installed the new motor. We removed the intake and installed the motor only and leveled it with the engine leveling , however, we removed and thought we were good as the oil pan cleared the angled brace. Then we installed the motor and the transmission. The clearance from the oil pan was none. After removing we adjusted the angled brace which is the one closest to the front of the motor. Either way we never had an shift arm problem. Yes our front chassis motor bracket holes were at the minimum height.

The reason for the motor and transmission install was to make sure the transmission mounts were going to work ok. By the way we found that the front engine mount should installed last.then tightena all the bolltss. Everything bolted in just the way Mike and et'AL designed it. By the way we installed the transmission while the motor was hanging on the engine hoist. The first time it was very tight fit but the second time it slid in much easier. Do not force it in and follow the manual.
Have fun

Ready to Write a Book
Ready to Write a Book
Posts: 91
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:37 am
PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 8:06 pm
Lee:

As you know, I did my own GEN3 conversion last winter. I struggled mightily with the motor mount brackets and ended up removing and replacing three of the four. From that struggle, I got a LOT of experience and documentation (photo and text) on the proper location of the mount brackets. Unless you've figured it all out already, why don't you give me a call and I can walk you through what I know.

Also, check out my post here entitled 'Motor and Transmission Mount Issues (2nd page of the GEN3 posts) for a good audit trail of my travails.

Joel
(317) 800-8345

Return to Spec Racer Gen3

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest