FrankenSpec - A Flaggers SRF Build

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Needs a Life!!!
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Posts: 294
Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:35 pm
Location: Ohio
Chassis:
244
PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 11:13 pm
Chris: Whatever body parts you can procure, give me a shout if they are in need of fiberglass work.
I'm known to "rescue" moderately to badly smashed, overweight, etc parts and bring them back to life.
Email me for my number. Good luck!
Mark Fick
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Chassis:
530
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 7:57 pm
Was able to do an inventory today, finally!

There are a few pieces I am unsure of exactly what they are, due to what I have diagrams for. Anyone able to identify?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Otyg0G-zIF_JRoIkR7N1wpIDi_iiZS8G

I know one of these is an engine mount. Others?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XXpz_Sw7p50KhcEWQrkVktzLUKM1w3_2

Still have a lot to go in regarding parts. The obvious to me is Suspension, Steering and brakes.

Does anyone have cooling layout and other routing for Gen 2?
Chris B
Chicago Region
Flagging and Communications / Emergency Services

Good chance you have seen me waving flags like a crazy person at some point.

Needs a Life!!!
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:12 pm
Location: Texas
Chassis:
821
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 10:38 pm
first photo:
clutch slave cylinder
second photo from top:
clutch fork
on left - not sure, might be an unused part that had something to do with the throttle cable
on right- upper motor mount
far right - alternator mount
left: the two sheet metal pieces are the front motor mount
the little sheet metal piece in the middle is the remote oil adapter mount

(hopefully I passed the test)

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 6:06 pm
PM sent
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Still Learning to Type
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Chassis:
530
PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 10:35 pm
This update there isn't much in the way of new stuff.

I spent most of last week down at Daytona for the 24hrs Flagging and helping out Central Florida Region. I was finally able to attend the 24hrs for the first time and spread some of dads ashes at Daytona. Have checked off the major endurance races off the list for Dad now, so its time to get back to the car! I had the pleasure of working with Lee Hill. We had the idea of doing a flagger with a cardboard sign....we just ended up being too busy on race day.

I picked up a set of the aluminum coolant tubes, not in perfect condition but I think they should be good enough to fit the bill. Both tubes are red and was thinking of painting one blue, to identfiy it as the "cool" line. I hope I can show off the car to kids and students so feel like this be good way to help show off the workings of the car. Thoughts?

Picked up the steel plates for the floor and hopefully have them in by the end of the week.

Fuel Cell is on its way back from Eagle Fuel Cells, bladder was inspected and given a little reinforcement at the cost of $90. Now I am on the hunt for the backing plate and the 45 degree connection. Want to point me in the right direction?

Pedal assembly and mounting bar and pedals I am still on the hunt for. I shouldn't be surprised but I still am that the assembly bar is like $200 for square tubing.

Been given leads on trying to find uprights/steering knuckles. Apparently the Renaults were made in Kenosha. So going to try to do some searching of junkyards on the other side of the cheddar curtain...aka Wisconsin border.

Regarding brakes, I hear there is an upgraded caliper coming out soon. Is anyone switching over the the new one?

Just want to say thanks again for the support from this fantastic community!!!
Chris B
Chicago Region
Flagging and Communications / Emergency Services

Good chance you have seen me waving flags like a crazy person at some point.

Novice Typer
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Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:19 pm
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 2:43 pm
Chris,
Did you get a copy of the Gen2 build manual? I had mine scanned so if you would like it, send me a message. I am at gutenberg 918 at g mail
I haven't gotten it cleaned up to edit out all the trash that the text scanning added but it is readable, free and has bad copies of the bad photos from the original.
Elliott
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Chassis:
530
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:40 pm
Thanks. I actually do have the build manual that I received from enterprise. It seems to be a very very old xerox copy that was later done with an old scanner, don't think a single page is perfectly vertical. Is this the one you are talking about?



Update: received two wilwood master cylinders off of apexspeed forums. I have been removing the old adhesive from the bottom of the chassis and noticed that the tube the lower belts wrap around is a bit rusty and eaten a bit. Have a feeling I should replace that tube.

The big dilemma I have right now is do I get the frame sandblasted/dipped and repainted/powder coated? Since it is just down to the bare frame now would be the time to do it. The big issue is funds and time. Also I know there are tubes that are not perfect that could be replaced down the road. Drivers school is just a bit over two months away and there is still so much that needs to be acquired.
Chris B
Chicago Region
Flagging and Communications / Emergency Services

Good chance you have seen me waving flags like a crazy person at some point.
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Needs a Life!!!
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Posts: 294
Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:35 pm
Location: Ohio
Chassis:
244
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 9:56 pm
Chris: I've heard of guys having their frames sandblasted but with all the little holes in our frames, they need to be covered or you will have one heavy frame full of sand that will be difficult to get out.
When I did my Gen3 conversion, I replaced the aluminum floor, finding some rust also along the bottom of my frame. I used a wire wheel and where there was heavier rust, I used a sanding disk on my high speed grinder. Then on those bare and slightly rusty areas, I brushed on silver POR 15 which bonds very well with the rust and bare metal. Then I used a good chassis paint over the POR 15. POR15.com is the website and buy the smallest can you need as it goes a long ways. Hope that helps. My method will save some time if you don't want to repaint the whole frame.
Mark Fick
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860
PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 11:14 am
I've powder coated and painted my two different SRF chassis and, to me, paint wins.

The key is to first get that frame sandblasted. Then be sure to have the chassis surface and paint at adequate application temperatures. I actually painted my previous SRF frame with Rustoleum Professional from spray cans covering small sections each spraying session. Took about eight to ten cans. It came out great, wore extremely well, is much easier to touch up, and was a snap to strip for repairs.

It's a good idea to use a light color to make it easier to spot stress cracks, etc.

Ready to Write a Book
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:37 am
PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 11:14 pm
Chris - glad to see you making progress and I noticed some of the parts I gave you in the pictures you’ve posted. Regarding the aluminum panels, as many have already told you, you can source those anywhere. I have a diagram that gives the dimensions for the two belly sections, but I don’t know where you’d find the dimensions for the side panels, firewall, and bladder cover. I’ll see if I can attach the belly panel dimensions here. Also, very important! Be sure to glue your panels in addition to rivoting them. I found a special aluminum glue that I think came from 3M. If you want, I’ll give you the product name and/or model number. I bought their applicator gun as well. You will need that. Also, you will find Cleco temporary rivets a life saver for installing any aluminum panels. If you don’t already have Cleco pliers and an assortment of the rivets, borrow them from someone. You won’t be sorry. I have a source that makes all the aluminum parts. PM me if you want the contact info.

On the painting/powder coating topic, I prefer powder coating myself because it goes on more evenly and is a lot tougher than paint. My frame is an irridescent purple which makes it real hard to match for repairs. Therefore, I’d go with something basic like black, gray, common tint of blue, etc so you can easily spray paint repaired frame rails. I did like the one comment about covering holes to prevent sand from getting trapped inside the frame. You don’t need extra weight!

Good luck on making the Blackhawk Farms drivers school in April! That was my drivers school too when I first bought my GEN2 in 2009.
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