Running cost fright !

All things specracer!

Novice Typer
Novice Typer
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:18 pm
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:43 pm
Hi,
Extremely interested in switching from Spec Miata to Spec Ford racer Gen3.
I just had a conversation with a racecar builder who warned me about the huge costs involved in running Spec Ford racer. Saying at least twice as expensive as running Spec Miata due to hugely expensive parts and expensive repairs. This was indeed disappointing to hear but is this really true?

If some seasoned racers could throw some light on this I would be extremely interested for comments.

Many thanks !

Needs a Life!!!
Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 389
Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:02 pm
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 3:02 pm
A big factor that could swing the equation: are you planning on arrive-and-drive and/or paying a prep shop for support, or are you going to do your own work, setup, and towing?
Here are some sample CSR parts prices (not including shipping) from my last few years of racing and breaking stuff (the further down you go the more out of date the prices):
$300 starter (died after 2 years I believe)
$300 muffler (hit from behind)
$240 radiator + $30 pair of body pins (hit the car in front of me)
$250 brake pads + $300 rotors (I think these lasted at least 6 weekends.. maybe more)
$800 fuel cell bladder
$320 fuel pump
$300 rear wheel hub
$2000 transmission rebuild

$970 set of tires (mounted, balanced, with tax)
If you run a full test day before each 2-race-day weekend you will usually max out at a new set of tires each weekend... using your old race tires for the test day. Lots of people run a set of tires for 2 or 3 weekends... it depends on how much and how hard you practice and how abrasive the tracks are. A weekend at COTA is practically a non-event, but a weekend at grooved-concrete tracks like TMS will use up a new set.

Needs a Life!!!
Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 389
Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:02 pm
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 3:38 pm
I'll add something non-parts... body damage.
I have seen SM guys boast about fixing their damage with a hammer and being good to go, but I'm guessing that's on the weekend and they later do a better job at home and have to repaint.
The SRF equivalent is duct-taping minor fiberglass injuries, or for more serious cracks/tears, pop-riveting scrap aluminum to stabilize the wound and then covering with duct tape for aesthetics. When you get home, grind away what's necessary and then start glassing in the real repair... then sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, and repaint. Ideally you find a guy local to you to do these repairs on the cheap.

Novice Typer
Novice Typer
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:18 pm
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 4:38 pm
pmiranda wrote:A big factor that could swing the equation: are you planning on arrive-and-drive and/or paying a prep shop for support, or are you going to do your own work, setup, and towing?
Here are some sample CSR parts prices (not including shipping) from my last few years of racing and breaking stuff (the further down you go the more out of date the prices):
$300 starter (died after 2 years I believe)
$300 muffler (hit from behind)
$240 radiator + $30 pair of body pins (hit the car in front of me)
$250 brake pads + $300 rotors (I think these lasted at least 6 weekends.. maybe more)
$800 fuel cell bladder
$320 fuel pump
$300 rear wheel hub
$2000 transmission rebuild

$970 set of tires (mounted, balanced, with tax)
If you run a full test day before each 2-race-day weekend you will usually max out at a new set of tires each weekend... using your old race tires for the test day. Lots of people run a set of tires for 2 or 3 weekends... it depends on how much and how hard you practice and how abrasive the tracks are. A weekend at COTA is practically a non-event, but a weekend at grooved-concrete tracks like TMS will use up a new set.


Many thanks indeed, much appreciate your feed back. I think those repair costs are very reasonable for a few seasons racing. Yes I will be doing the work myself. Thanks again !

Novice Typer
Novice Typer
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:18 pm
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 4:39 pm
pmiranda wrote:I'll add something non-parts... body damage.
I have seen SM guys boast about fixing their damage with a hammer and being good to go, but I'm guessing that's on the weekend and they later do a better job at home and have to repaint.
The SRF equivalent is duct-taping minor fiberglass injuries, or for more serious cracks/tears, pop-riveting scrap aluminum to stabilize the wound and then covering with duct tape for aesthetics. When you get home, grind away what's necessary and then start glassing in the real repair... then sand, fill, sand, fill, sand, and repaint. Ideally you find a guy local to you to do these repairs on the cheap.



Much appreciated ! Thanks !

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