Basic camber adjustment...

Technical and Repair Discussions

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 7:20 am
I am new to SRFs but have set up and raced cars for quite awhile. The way it looks to me, to adjust camber settings, you have to disconnect the upright at the bottom and move the rod end in or out. Right? No barrel nut? Is this really how it works? Seems a bit archaic. Maybe I am missing something.

Jim
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 7:51 am
That's how you do it. Loosen the jam nut, remove the LBJ nut, let the lower A arm come away from the upright, turn the rod end in or out, and then put it back together and measure. Others may have different numbers, but I've generally found a whole turn equals roughly 3/8 degree.
Dan

Formerly Teamwork Motorsports #99, Chassis #460

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 8:25 am
Thanks Dan. The turn measure is helpful.

Jim
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 9:51 am
Also remember that there is a restriction on how much thread can be exposed on a rod end (e.g., the lower ball joint rod end). If you can't get the camber you're looking for and stay within that, you may have to make other adjustments to the inboard rod ends on the lower A arm.
Dan

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 10:02 am
Maximum thread exposure on the LBJ is 9/16 of an inch.

DaveP

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 11:27 am
Great info. I am going to tackle this tonight and to save myself some aggravation, can you tell me if there is enough clearance to do this with the wheel on or does it have to come off.

If I was looking at it right now it might be real easy to tell but, alas, I am at work.

Jim
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 11:43 am
Jim Nash wrote:Great info. I am going to tackle this tonight and to save myself some aggravation, can you tell me if there is enough clearance to do this with the wheel on or does it have to come off.

If I was looking at it right now it might be real easy to tell but, alas, I am at work.

Jim

It's a little trickier to do it w/o removing the wheel, but it can be done.
Dave Harriman
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 3:47 pm
I generally go through the pain and aggravation of removing the wheel, making the adjustment, then putting the wheel back on, and torqueing it. Sometimes leaving the wheel on can make lining up the LBJ pin more difficult and it takes me longer to do it that way.
Dan

Formerly Teamwork Motorsports #99, Chassis #460

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 5:05 pm
It sounds like taking the wheel off might be best. Often an extra couple steps is better than a struggle. Less energy exerted in the end. Thanks for all the input.

Jim

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