Upper Control Arm Mounting Problems

Technical and Repair Discussions
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:35 pm
Location: College Station, TX
Chassis:
294
PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 8:56 am
Since swapping to the new tubular upper control arms, I noticed that my car feels very stiff. I thought it was just a Gen3 thing until I unbolted the two sides of each control arm and tried to rotate them by hand. They all require tremendous force to rotate around the pivot and I have been told that they should rotate easily with just pushing them with 1 finger. I tried grinding down each end of the brass bushings so that the pivot tube would stick out a bit further. This definitely helped, but it still takes a good amount of force to rotate the arm back and forth. My only thought now is that the pivot tubes are too tight inside the brass bushings. Am I on the right track or am I going too far? I have a few questions.

1. How easy should the upper control arms pivot?
2. How tight should the pivot bolt be? I tighten them until the mounting shim in the picture stops rotating with the control arm. Is that the correct way?

I appreciate any help. Thanks.
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Upper Control Arm Mounting Shim.jpg
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Joe Frederick
Texas Region
SRF#65 Chassis#294

Needs a Life!!!
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Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:09 pm
Location: Off Agro Racing
Chassis:
407
PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 2:51 pm
You need to hone the inside of the bushings to allow the pivot tube to rotate freely. You can use a brake hone and drill with some WD-40. Go slowly and fit check often you don't want it to be too sloppy.

Needs a Life!!!
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Location: Daytona Beach, FL
PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 7:06 pm
You can also get a reamer tool that is the right size. This should be done to all new bushing and if there is any binding problem. This will true up the bushings,like honing a engine cylinder block.
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Still Learning to Type
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Chassis:
198
PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 9:45 am
In the 70's I worked in an auto parts store with a machine shop. Big trucks with solid front axles often needed the front spindles rebuilt with new bushings. Find a machine shop that hones spindle bushings to match new king pins. Bring the dog bone and rocker arm with the new bushings installed and they can hone the bushings for a near perfect fit.

By the way, is there a recommended clearance measurement between the dog bone and bushing?
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Still Learning to Type
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Posts: 47
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:35 pm
Location: College Station, TX
Chassis:
294
PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 5:24 pm
bob gardner wrote:You need to hone the inside of the bushings to allow the pivot tube to rotate freely. You can use a brake hone and drill with some WD-40. Go slowly and fit check often you don't want it to be too sloppy.


I just bought the OEM Adjustable Brake Cylinder Hone and honed out the brass bushings on my UCA. WOW!!! What a difference that made. I can't believe I ran 2 weekends without doing this. I hope I can feel my car a little better now. I also found the recommended torque setting of 50ft.lbs. for the dog bone bolt.

Thanks gentlemen. I wish I would have posted this before grinding down the ends of the brass bushings so much...hopefully I didn't go too far and develop movement in that direction. Thanks again and hope to see you guys at the track one of these days.
Joe Frederick
Texas Region
SRF#65 Chassis#294

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