tools?
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 9:15 pm
Hello, Iam new to the sport and will be getting my srf 2 in a few weeks. In the meantime I would like to get a few things together. Would any of you have a suggestion on which standard size tools I need to work on the car? I have plenty of metric tools but no standard. so which socket sizes and wrench sizes should i buy? i would like to avoid buying complete sets if i only nee 1/3 of it. also i prefer socketsfor using a torque wrench wherever possible. thanks a lot in advance.
Sven
Edit 05-31-20 and later:
After a few years running and prepping the Gen2 and lately converting the srf to gen3 I could come up with following tools (I will add to the list whenever convenient). Also I usually buy Snapon, Stahlwille, Gedore, Hazet or whatever McMaster Carr has. LCC tools taught me lessons and I do not buy these.
- small battery driven impact drill (Bosch) with 1/4 adapter to run 1/4 sockets. I bought that one at Snapon. I usually do use the 7/16 or 11mm socket for the 1/4-28 or 1/4-20 bolts
- a 1/4 drive torque wrench which goes between 2-25Nm, I have the Gedore one. I torque 95% of the bolts that I tighten. Tables for what torque should be used are available in engineering books or maybe even in the internet. For most dry assembled bolts I use a friction coefficient of 0.18-0.20. The tables usually go to 80% yield which is pretty conservative. Remember to add the friction torque of the nylon insert nuts if you want to be super accurate.
- a 3/8 inch torque wrench with 8-80Nm or whatever that is in english
- a 1/2 inch torque wrench with 50-250ft*lbs of torque, that is especially for the drive shaft nuts and wheel nuts. Besides other things.
- a long 1/2 inch breaker bar (22 inch) to open the drive shaft nuts.
- wrenches 3/8 break line, 1/4, 8mm, 1/2, 7/16, 12-19mm, 9/16, 11/16, 19/32, 7/8, 13/16, 22mm, 15/16
- 2x Channel lock adj wrenches 1 1/2 for AN fittings
- Sockets:
1/4 and 3/8 bit adapter for 1/4 bits.
1/4 inch bits sets internal hex metric and standard
1/4 inch drive: sizes of sockets are 3/16 to 1/4 brand is wera, 5/16 deep for hose clamps
3/8 inch drive: 3/8 to 3/4 brand is wera , 10" extension, internal hex 5,6,8mm, Stahlwille ratchet
1/2 inch: 10-24mm set, 19mm deep, 15/16 deep, 30mm socket deep
- 1/2 impact wrench, battery driven Milwaukee 150Nm- I recommend a bigger one if you buy one.
- small Bosch drill to drill holes if required.
- a set of drill bits and a 90 degree deburr drill
- a rivet nut puller- I got a simple one from McMaster Carr together with many 1/4-28 river nuts.
- Axle popper or whatever the name is. To get the drive shafts out of the transmission.
- Oetiker pliers for the CV boot clamps
- Grease Gun, OTC, in case your car has a purpose for that
- Long nose pliers- Keiba
- Side cutter Keiba for Tyraps
- Side cutter pliers for piano wire, Knipex
- Cobra pliers, Knipex
- Soldering iron and heat gun for electric work
- Radkitplusa, vacuum filler- worked excellent on my bead seat and coolant fill.
- Selfmade steering column clamp to lock steering when doing the alignment
- Alignment bars and strings
- Lift jack 22" operating length brand is Ranger
- Line+ cross Laser Bosch to setup the scales
- Intercomp scales and levelers
- Longacre camber and caster level with adapter to hold onto the wheel.
- 48 inch level or optional a straight bar to lay onto the level to check the ride height
- Mitutoyo caliper 0.05mm accuracy
- Metal hand saw
- rivet plier
- Angle grinder, Metabo 4 1/2"
- air grinder 1/4 collet with burrs
Further on, maybe not required but at some time somewhat important.
- 4HP air compressor, mostly for painting.
- Hoist in the attic to pull the engine out.
- TIG welder Dynasty DX280 cps including cooler
- Press for getting wheel bearing replaced. (It typically takes about 7-10k lbs) I do that at work in our fabshop. A lathe next to it is helpful when making pieces to get the bearing out and in again
- Tire changer and balancer- same here, I do that at work.
- optional things to do fiberglass work and do spray painting if you like that work.
that list is probably incomplete and you might be ok with less, some people might even have more things- you can't have too many proper tools.
Sven
Edit 05-31-20 and later:
After a few years running and prepping the Gen2 and lately converting the srf to gen3 I could come up with following tools (I will add to the list whenever convenient). Also I usually buy Snapon, Stahlwille, Gedore, Hazet or whatever McMaster Carr has. LCC tools taught me lessons and I do not buy these.
- small battery driven impact drill (Bosch) with 1/4 adapter to run 1/4 sockets. I bought that one at Snapon. I usually do use the 7/16 or 11mm socket for the 1/4-28 or 1/4-20 bolts
- a 1/4 drive torque wrench which goes between 2-25Nm, I have the Gedore one. I torque 95% of the bolts that I tighten. Tables for what torque should be used are available in engineering books or maybe even in the internet. For most dry assembled bolts I use a friction coefficient of 0.18-0.20. The tables usually go to 80% yield which is pretty conservative. Remember to add the friction torque of the nylon insert nuts if you want to be super accurate.
- a 3/8 inch torque wrench with 8-80Nm or whatever that is in english
- a 1/2 inch torque wrench with 50-250ft*lbs of torque, that is especially for the drive shaft nuts and wheel nuts. Besides other things.
- a long 1/2 inch breaker bar (22 inch) to open the drive shaft nuts.
- wrenches 3/8 break line, 1/4, 8mm, 1/2, 7/16, 12-19mm, 9/16, 11/16, 19/32, 7/8, 13/16, 22mm, 15/16
- 2x Channel lock adj wrenches 1 1/2 for AN fittings
- Sockets:
1/4 and 3/8 bit adapter for 1/4 bits.
1/4 inch bits sets internal hex metric and standard
1/4 inch drive: sizes of sockets are 3/16 to 1/4 brand is wera, 5/16 deep for hose clamps
3/8 inch drive: 3/8 to 3/4 brand is wera , 10" extension, internal hex 5,6,8mm, Stahlwille ratchet
1/2 inch: 10-24mm set, 19mm deep, 15/16 deep, 30mm socket deep
- 1/2 impact wrench, battery driven Milwaukee 150Nm- I recommend a bigger one if you buy one.
- small Bosch drill to drill holes if required.
- a set of drill bits and a 90 degree deburr drill
- a rivet nut puller- I got a simple one from McMaster Carr together with many 1/4-28 river nuts.
- Axle popper or whatever the name is. To get the drive shafts out of the transmission.
- Oetiker pliers for the CV boot clamps
- Grease Gun, OTC, in case your car has a purpose for that
- Long nose pliers- Keiba
- Side cutter Keiba for Tyraps
- Side cutter pliers for piano wire, Knipex
- Cobra pliers, Knipex
- Soldering iron and heat gun for electric work
- Radkitplusa, vacuum filler- worked excellent on my bead seat and coolant fill.
- Selfmade steering column clamp to lock steering when doing the alignment
- Alignment bars and strings
- Lift jack 22" operating length brand is Ranger
- Line+ cross Laser Bosch to setup the scales
- Intercomp scales and levelers
- Longacre camber and caster level with adapter to hold onto the wheel.
- 48 inch level or optional a straight bar to lay onto the level to check the ride height
- Mitutoyo caliper 0.05mm accuracy
- Metal hand saw
- rivet plier
- Angle grinder, Metabo 4 1/2"
- air grinder 1/4 collet with burrs
Further on, maybe not required but at some time somewhat important.
- 4HP air compressor, mostly for painting.
- Hoist in the attic to pull the engine out.
- TIG welder Dynasty DX280 cps including cooler
- Press for getting wheel bearing replaced. (It typically takes about 7-10k lbs) I do that at work in our fabshop. A lathe next to it is helpful when making pieces to get the bearing out and in again
- Tire changer and balancer- same here, I do that at work.
- optional things to do fiberglass work and do spray painting if you like that work.
that list is probably incomplete and you might be ok with less, some people might even have more things- you can't have too many proper tools.