tools?

Technical and Repair Discussions

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 9:15 pm
Hello, Iam new to the sport and will be getting my srf 2 in a few weeks. In the meantime I would like to get a few things together. Would any of you have a suggestion on which standard size tools I need to work on the car? I have plenty of metric tools but no standard. so which socket sizes and wrench sizes should i buy? i would like to avoid buying complete sets if i only nee 1/3 of it. also i prefer socketsfor using a torque wrench wherever possible. thanks a lot in advance.
Sven
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 10:21 pm
Other than a 13/16", you'll want a complete SAE wrench set from at least 7/16" through 15/16" of wrenches (you want to double up on a couple like 1/2 & 9/16 - I find the ratcheting sets work well for tight spaces.) Same range for SAE sockets. Pretty much everything to do with the suspension is SAE, except brake parts (caliper pins/bracket). Engine side is mostly metric except for mounts to the chassis. There's one special tool I recommend to get to the 11/16" inner suspension rod end nuts that are buried into front suspension mounts in the front (and helpful in the rear as well, as well as a metric star socket for the caliper brackets (don't recall the number.)

Metric range is pretty standard 7/8/10/13/17/19.
Bob Breton - SRF 51 - San Francisco Region
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 1:04 pm
A 30MM 1/2-inch drive socket, which is what you'll need to check that the rear hub axle nuts are staying in proper torque range -- roughly 160 foot-pounds. That nut can, from time to time, back off a bit and make high speed stability kinda hinky.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 3:02 pm
One tool I was told to purchase by one of the more experienced drivers was a portable vacuum cleaner. I did not appreciate why at the time until I ran Laguna Seca. Went a little "off the preferred line" and beached it then had to remove a few buckets of sand. The next race weekend went agricultural at Thunderhill and had to remove a few buckets of sod. Highly recommended, you won't realize how handy they can be....
Jerry Aplass SRF #204
San Francisco Region
"Straights are for fast cars. Turns are for fast drivers." - Colin McRae
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:25 pm
I love the user name... one of my favorite corners/complexes in the world to drive! :) Welcome to the class!
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:32 pm
A jack with low clearance and some stands about 6" high (enough to keep the tires off the ground).
Dave Harriman
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 8:50 pm
Thank you so much for all the info. I really appreciate it and wish you all a good season.
Sven.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:06 am
Oh, and this may seem out of left field, but trust me on this: 2x4 wood blocks, eight of them, a foot to 18 inches long. I won't go into all the uses here. You'll find out soon enough.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:57 am
Best thing I've bought is an 18V (I use Ryobi and it works great) impact gun (right term?). You will be taking wheels on and off and it works on all other bolts, axle nuts, etc.
It also shares batteries with my drill, impact driver (not needed on car), air compressor, etc. Love it.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 11:19 am
Racer X wrote:Best thing I've bought is an 18V (I use Ryobi and it works great) impact gun (right term?). You will be taking wheels on and off and it works on all other bolts, axle nuts, etc.
It also shares batteries with my drill, impact driver (not needed on car), air compressor, etc. Love it.


I'll back this up. (I have Bosch.) Get a good one that has trigger-progressive speed so that you can ease the lug nuts on without cross-threading. Cheaper guns are just on/off and you'll need to start them by hand to be safe.
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