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Technical and Repair Discussions

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 12:08 pm
+1 Greg

This is one tool where the extra quality is worth the extra $$$
I have a kobalt from Lowe's they come with a 5 year replacement warranty and the battery stays charged forever.

But be prepared for other guys coming to borrow it when they have an issue.
Molly Ivians wrote of George W Bush

"He was born on third base and thought he hit a triple!"

I was born in the parking lot with an empty wallet and no ticket to the game.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 5:22 pm
I use a DeWalt driver. Torques the wheel nuts to about 70 ft-pounds. That gets them damn close to right (no chance of stripping) and I double check with a torque wrench. DeWalt sells a 3/8-drive mandrel for it that lets you attach a 3/4-inch, 3/8 drive deep impact socket just for wheels.

As the other guys suggest, whatever brand you buy, make it battery compatible with your other cordless tools.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:15 pm
Can I borrow your Kobalt Lee? Heading to VIR soon! :D ;)
Mark Fick
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 1:12 am
I have started a tools list and add to it as I go. School down about half the page past the maintenance articles:
http://www.kangamotorsports.com/maintenance-checklists/

+1 for impact driver I use a DeWalt Lithium and it is fantastic and lot faster.
James Chartres
SRF #77 - Chassis #501
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 9:23 am
Zealous wrote:I have started a tools list and add to it as I go. School down about half the page past the maintenance articles:
http://www.kangamotorsports.com/maintenance-checklists/

+1 for impact driver I use a DeWalt Lithium and it is fantastic and lot faster.


I have a my little class of tools I call "Hero Tools." These are tools with the capability to pull you out of a whole range of jams around your racecar. These include Vise Grips, crowbars, breaker bars, universal joint socket adapters and even the aforementioned 2x4 blocks.

I'd have to consider lightweight cordless impact drivers for inclusion in the League of Tool Heroes. My DeWalt driver is a ten year old 14V ni-cad battery piece and it still works great and holds its charge nicely.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 11:31 am
Duct tape, pop rivets, scrap aluminum.
Dave Harriman
"It looks crazy, I understand. But, we only live once and I am going to give it a good try." - Alex Zanardi

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 12:16 pm
Almost forgot

There are galvanized plates that are used to reinforce trusses. They are about 6"x4" and are predrilled with 1/8" holes about every half inch.

These are great for repairing body work at the track. Bend them to shape drill through the predrllied holes rivet away and tape over everything and your good to go. The big box home repair stores carry them.

When they work they save a ton of time over cutting and drilling holes in scrap metal. I carry both.
Molly Ivians wrote of George W Bush

"He was born on third base and thought he hit a triple!"

I was born in the parking lot with an empty wallet and no ticket to the game.
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Needs a Life!!!
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Posts: 689
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:03 am
Location: Greenwich, Connecticut
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860
PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 1:10 pm
dave wrote:Duct tape, pop rivets, scrap aluminum.


Duct tape in a color that closely matches your race car's paint. Pop rivets: 1/8 and 3/16 inch, various depths. And, of course, 1/8 and 3/16 drill bits, several of each. Hardware store radiator aluminum flashing works great for body repairs.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 3:03 pm
Way back in the good old Sears days, I bought a set of English and metric sockets in 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" drives. Still great for our class. I love the newer style ratchet style wrenches too. A well built high volt impact wrench, 30mm socket for our rear axles, quick jack, various wood blocks, lots of pop rivets, spare knuckles, sheet aluminum (still using pieces from our ancient center section that separated brake from the clutch pedal), air tank, good analog air gauge, cordless drill and bits, Led light bar, funnels for fuel, tranny, and coolant.....
Mark Fick
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