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I'm planning to get my exhaust coated, and am considering Jet-Hot and Swain. I'm interested in opinions about the performance, longevity, and value of those products on your spec racer.

Thanks

Kurt I had the exhaust coated by Jet Hot on my G2. The product held up pretty well over several seasons. The biggest issue with these type of coatings is when you need to do a weld repair. The coating is ceramic and needs to be removed in the area to be welded. When I converted over to the G3 I just painted the exaust with a good high temp header paint. It is cheaper and is easy to make repairs. Just my .02 worth.

These are the guys I used for my '56 F100 truck exhaust...there finish is better than Jet Hot. http://www.capsbhc.com/index.htm

bob gardner wrote:Kurt I had the exhaust coated by Jet Hot on my G2. The product held up pretty well over several seasons. The biggest issue with these type of coatings is when you need to do a weld repair. The coating is ceramic and needs to be removed in the area to be welded. When I converted over to the G3 I just painted the exaust with a good high temp header paint. It is cheaper and is easy to make repairs. Just my .02 worth.

Header paint is what I do, too. Let's face it, a rear end shunt on GEN3 is potentially a lot more expensive than GEN2, thanks to the exposed collector gusset. Adding another $250-$300 for coating to that repair will only make matters worse.

On the same subject of repairs, my current SRF came new with a powder coasted frame. My previous SRF's frame was painted with Rust-O-Leum Pro. It wore like iron and was much easier to repair.

Thanks for the input, guys! I gave a little thought about the damage consequences, but wasn't sure how likely damage would be. I would hope the header is pretty safe ...

We are using a trick used in the aircraft industry, bluing. Bluing is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust, and is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. All you need to to is coat your new header and exhaust with linseed oil and fire it up. The oil will burn off and you will be left with a rust resistant blue passivation like on a gun. Bruce from AccelRaceTek

That looks like a good solution, if someone is only looking for rust protection. It would not provide any performance improvement though.