SpecRacer.com

Pardon my ignorance. I just bought a SRF, and want to remove and inspect the wheel bearings since it has been sitting a number of years. I"ve seen mention of a "Niederriter" tool to help remove the inner race rather than cut them off, but I haven't been able to identify a source or other reference.

Can someone please point me in the right direction for a how to, or other reference, on wheel bearing remove & replace?

Thanks
-Scott

This is the type I use. put the tool on the lip of bearing race. round ring groove. clamp the tool in the groove tight but not to tight so it will come off the hub. This is when bearing is bad and you are replacing the whole bearing. To just check them press hub out of upright upper race will come off and you can inspect races for pitting and lube up the bearing and press it back together. Press,7/8 deep impact scoket fits the hub. Hope this helps

mlniederriter atyahoo.com

I have a pdf of the Midwest Spec Racer "Bearing Service" document. It's a nice 17 page how-to.

Unfortunately, when I printed it long ago from the Midwest Spec Racer website, it clipped some of the text on the right side. I don't think the missing text is critical, but, the hub, or upright, that you ruin might be your own.

I can't upload it to the forum. The forum doesn't like pdf's and the file is too big anyway.

I put it on my seldom used SkyDrive. This link may (or may not) get the file for you.

http://sdrv.ms/1eIobYd

8/11/2021: Updated link:

https://1drv.ms/b/s!Au901B7JE8AxggIBfkG_wCMOUvTy

If not, and you want it, email me and I'll send the pdf to anyone that wants it.

edcavalier+srf@msn.com

Thanks, all. I have the tool, now, tool. BTW, how much grease should be loaded in, how much air space to leave inside? I can't seem to find a recommendation...

Thanks,
s

I just pack grease into the balls until there covered litely. Above what comes on them. Air space will be in the middle gap. On repack, after cleaning and inspection I pack it in the same way by putting grease on my finger tips and push down so grease goes down into the balls and covers them slightly. then add little extra on top of balls to cover them. I also rotate the balls around as I pack them

Ed Cavalier wrote:I have a pdf of the Midwest Spec Racer "Bearing Service" document. It's a nice 17 page how-to.

Unfortunately, when I printed it long ago from the Midwest Spec Racer website, it clipped some of the text on the right side. I don't think the missing text is critical, but, the hub, or upright, that you ruin might be your own.

I can't upload it to the forum. The forum doesn't like pdf's and the file is too big anyway.

I put it on my seldom used SkyDrive. This link may (or may not) get the file for you.

http://sdrv.ms/1eIobYd

If not, and you want it, email me and I'll send the pdf to anyone that wants it.

edcavalier+srf@msn.com

Thanks for doing that, I was just trying to find it for someone the other day....

To Ed Cavalier: Seven years later: Thank you for still having the pdf document available.

Ray Russell
SRF Gen 2 Chassis #461

srf461 wrote:To Ed Cavalier: Seven years later: Thank you for still having the pdf document available.

Ray Russell
SRF Gen 2 Chassis #461

Your welcome!

Wait, what? Seven years! I'm still a rookie, right? At least I still race like one! I've got to find those red "X's" for my next race.

One of the problems that I had following the Mid West Spec Racer procedure was finding a way to support the knuckle to press-out the hub. A press with enough space between the crossbars for the hub to fit through was hard to find and expensive. I cobbled together a jig that used the brake mounting "ears" and the steering arm tie rod end hole. It worked, but I recently realized that if I had to apply a lot of force to get the hub out, it might bend the steering arm. Subsequently, I found this:

https://www.tools-plus.com/astro-pneuma ... oMQAvD_BwE

It may work just fine on the car as shown in the YouTube videos and in the instructions, but I used it on my press. Pictures of the set-up can be found here:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0oJtdOXmJqJJTN

(Let me know if that link doesn't work.)

By the way, that thing on top of the socket is a bubble level. I used shims under the right side support arm to get the hub level and square to the press ram.

Ed