Stuck throttle?

Technical and Repair Discussions

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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:21 pm
Location: Park City, UT
Chassis:
617
PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 5:17 pm
Hey gang, I'm new to this group. So new in fact, that my SRF3 has not yet arrived, but already has an issue I'm trying to remotely diagnose.

During transport the driver was rearranging cars in the trailer somewhere in South Dakota and says that the throttle is stuck open. I assume the Gen3's are electronic throttles right? If so, what could possibly cause the throttle to stick open? Anyone seen this before?

If Gen3's are still cable actuated like Gen2's, well, then we probably have friction in the cable and know where to start looking...

-G

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 9:32 pm
Gen 3's are still plain old cable throttle.
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Location: Conway, NH
PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:13 am
Sounds like the cable could be frozen from the cold, or maybe the cable has frayed inside the housing- pushing the pedal down and it not returning.

New Member
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Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:21 pm
Location: Park City, UT
Chassis:
617
PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 2:12 am
Thanks all. Just got the car today and it IS an old throttle cable. Tends to stick a bit so I'll do a bit more diagnosis with your ideas above.
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Chassis:
595
PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 8:33 pm
I found the need to add a spring at the throttle pedal to get it to reliably return.
Bob Breton - SRF 51 - San Francisco Region
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 2:49 am
I recommend you check the following.
1. Pedal Pivot Bolt - The pedal pivot bolt is a 5/16 shoulder bolt that should have a nylock nut. If the nut is tightened too much it will create friction and cause the pedal to bind. Make sure the pedal has a small amount of clearance and moves freely. If it doesn't, loosen the nylock nut until it does. We use a double jam nut or a new nylock to be sure the nut doesn't loosen.
2. Throttle Cabel Alignment - Make sure the throttle cable, at the pedal end, is lined up with the small rod end at the pedal. You can check it by loosening up the cable jam nut. If it isn't aligned you can bend the cable support bar to be sure it doesn't have a sideload.
3. Lubrication - It never hurts to lubricate the cable at both ends.
4. Cable Routing - Check the cable routing to be sure there isn't any binding. When upgrading from a GEN2 to 3 it is recommended to install a shorter cable but some people don't. If the cable is not dressed or has too tight of a radius bend it can bind. Also, be sure the cable is tie-wrapped to keep it in the best anatomical position.
Hope this helps Bruce @ AccelRaceTek

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