New High Capacity Radiator

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 2:15 am
You might not know but SCCA-E has a new and improved radiator. The Subaru Brat radiator that most people buy comes from many sources and some radiators have less cooling capacity than others. SCCA-E developed a new radiator custom to the SpecRacer Ford with about 20% higher cooling capacity to address this issue. The new radiator also does not have all the extra transmission cooling lines and it doesn’t have a radiator cap. The higher capacity radiator requires two new parts. If your car runs hot in the summer you should consider upgrading to the new one in the off season. The parts required to upgrade to the hew radiator are:

480465 RADIATOR, HIGH CAPACITY $205.00
480464 BAFFLE RADIATOR HIGH CAP LH $45.00
480469 BRACKET RADIATOR SIDE LH HIGH CAP $17.48

Bruce @ AccelRaceTek
Attachments
480469.jpg
NEW – Bracket Radiator-Body - Part# 480469
480469.jpg (19.17 KiB) Viewed 6962 times
Photo Radiator Sheet Metal.jpg
NEW - Upper LH Baffle - Part #480464
Photo Radiator Sheet Metal.jpg (20.47 KiB) Viewed 6962 times
Photo Radiator.jpg
New – Radiator, High Capacity - Part# 480465
Photo Radiator.jpg (32.76 KiB) Viewed 6962 times

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 5:55 pm
Does this help w/ 5mile thunderhill?

Thanks
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Needs a Life!!!
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2021 7:17 pm
After a change to the new style radiator this weekend, couple of installation device tips:

The new radiator does not have built-in mounting nuts on the top mount like the Brat, just a hole in the same location, so you'll need nuts to go along with the existing bolts (or break off the nuts from the old radiator as an emergency fix - thanks, Rod...)

Chances are the holes of the new mandatory baffle will not line up with holes of the existing baffle, so make sure it mounts close to flush with the bottom of the existing baffle (it's pretty much a mirror of the right side).

Clearance to the left side hose is extremely tight so I had to make a couple of "adjustments" to provide enough clearance to get the hose re-attached.

Make sure that there's sufficient foam to seal the back and sides tightly to makes sure you get maximum airflow.

If I did it again, I'd replace the two threaded rubber grommets that attache the bottom of the radiator to the frame rather than reuse the old ones. It's a PIA to loosen and tighten the bolts with the belly pan installed (my mistake was putting the rubber grommets in the new radiator first - lesson learned - thanks, Rod, again, for the extra set of hands!)

Since there's no radiator cap, I assume the two plastic screws on each side are to help venting air out of the radiator during the fill process. I think these are being replaced with a more secure screw cap as the plastic pieces look a bit fragile.

QUESTION: Should the design of the radiator be changed so coolant flows top to bottom? Pumping water in from the lower left of the radiator and pushing water up to the upper right side of the radiator seems backwards, isn't it?
Bob Breton - SRF 51 - San Francisco Region

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