Gen 3 won't start

Technical and Repair Discussions

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:40 pm
Hi
I'm nearing completion of my Gen 3 conversion, went to start the engine to test my Data system and no go. I only ran it the one time before with no problems. I tried both with and without connected to PE data system, disconnected my dash, redid TPS set up and checked fuel pressure and Oxygen sensor setting. I have spark . Lambda on the PE screen says 1.32. ????? ECU light is on steady with ignition on and cranking.
Glenn

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 12:09 am
Old fuel, Add more fuel, Car level? Double check all sensors are connected and locked on. Sometimes it can be necessary to crack the throttle or vary the throttle a little. Just do not over rev a cold motor. Clean IAC control unit.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 5:07 pm
Glenn Woloski wrote:Hi
I'm nearing completion of my Gen 3 conversion, went to start the engine to test my Data system and no go. I only ran it the one time before with no problems. I tried both with and without connected to PE data system, disconnected my dash, redid TPS set up and checked fuel pressure and Oxygen sensor setting. I have spark . Lambda on the PE screen says 1.32. ????? ECU light is on steady with ignition on and cranking.
Glenn


If it'll start with the throttle manually held open a bit, but then stalls, then it's the idle air controller (carry over piece from the Gen 2). A lot of the IACs that worked fine on the Gen 2 don't work for Gen 3.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 1:17 am
Hi
Thanks for the suggestions.
Playing with the throttle has no effect.
Tonight I used a shot of carb cleaner(fuel) in the intake and the motor fired right up and ran normal. Tried a restart about 30 seconds later and started instantly. Ran fine thereafter . Will try another cold start tomorrow. No fuel when cranking cold it seems.
ECU dash light does not go out however. I assume it should? No Fault codes flash, and no indication of faults on the PE monitor.
Glenn
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:52 am
ECU light should go out before you attempt to start the engine. Some cars seem to be difficult to start, especially with weak batteries, so you may want to try additional booster battery to see if it helps (and make sure the in-car battery is fully charged and in good condition).

O2 sensor won't register a valid reading until warmed up. If it's not connected properly, it should read around .7. At WOT it should read 0.88. It will read higher on idle/part throttle.

This may be off-the-wall, but my initial Gen3 ECU light stayed on even when the engine was running. Turned out to be a defective ECU LED light that had the negative connection shorted to the frame of the LED (should be isolated), so it would never go out as it always went to ground through the metal dash plate.
Bob Breton - SRF 51 - San Francisco Region

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 9:52 pm
.....investigating ECU light not going out. My ECR black ground wire appears to be wired to the wrong pin at the ECU to dash connector . My ground wire goes to pin 4 not 6 as shown on Accelracetech G 3 manual Fig A4 and is making it's way to the engine ground via the EFI harness, it is also connected to the upper right most pin on the male (large ) ECU connector.
Don't know if the "A4" wiring schematic is wrong or my harness is wrong

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:11 am
So was mine - same wiring mistake Chassis ground and ECU reference ground switched at the dash cable connector.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:10 pm
You said you're getting good fuel pressure pre-start, correct? You might just pop the Schrader valve to make certain. You should hear the pump cycle for probably 6-8 seconds when power is applied.
If you don't have FP on your dash then put a gauge on it to be certain (doing both isn't a terrible idea if you're having potential FP issues... I'm not sure exactly where the FP sender for the ECU is located but it may not be at the rail).
____________
Bay 12, please.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:48 pm
Dog Licked Racing wrote:So was mine - same wiring mistake Chassis ground and ECU reference ground switched at the dash cable connector.


Did you just splice the wires over,or do the connectors come apart. Did you have starting issues? From the input I've received the GEN 3 doesn't start too easily? I have stopped trying after over 100 revolutions of the engine. surely a modern fuel injected engine is not like this?
There is a problem with the image for Accelracetech A4 . I got a strong magnifying glass I found the corresponding numbers for the pins on the plug. My wires are in the right number location, but the numbers go 123 LEFT TO RIGHT and 456 RIGHT TO LEFT . So what is the right way ?
Dash - ECU
1 red - red/white
2 blue - green /white
3 White - blue
4 white - white/black
5 black - white/red
6 black - black

Is it known the correct pin location at the ECU for the light ground?
Yes very good fuel pressure tested with mechanical gauge

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 10:43 am
My lead mechanic was able to back the two pin out from the connector at the dash and swap them.

send me a direst email and I will send you some wiring diagrams, we traced the ECU reference ground vs. the chassis ground and found them to be swapped in the connector at the dash sub harness. Same issue Blue light one all the time, and the Rain map switch did nothing (stuck in rain map).

My Gen3 often does not start on the first try, seems to be related to pressing the starter button too quickly. I can crank it forever and it will not start. So after just a few cranks, I toggle the on switch to off for 2 seconds and then back on and wait 5 seconds. It always starts on this second try. I wonder if hitting start lowers the voltage enough to disrupt the ECU waking up process.

Contact me at FHC"AT"DogLickedRacing(dot)com if you want wiring diagrams
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