I'm 2/3 through the replacement of my header, and I had some input from the community. Some suggested I would need to remove the alternator, and one person thought it required an engine pull (or at least a "lift").

I was able to remove the header in 1/2 hour without removing anything (other than the exhaust system South of the header). The magic tool is a ratcheting 13mm box wrench. There's no room for even a low profile socket.

The four top header bolts were accessible from above, and the four bottom bolts from below. The bolt under the alternator is the toughest, but working by feel, and being patient, it wasn't bad.

Once loose, the header pulls out the left side of the car, with a 90 degree, counter-clockwise twist to clear some obstructions. New header should be good for 30-40 HP.

Greg,
I've got to pull mine as well...
I have the 13mm ratcheting box wrench.
Did you have any kind of prep, like soaking the nuts/bolts with a Liquid Wrench like product, or just wrench away???
Thanks,
Rob
p.s.- I've been told its more like 40-50 hp gain...

IceRacer wrote:Greg,
I've got to pull mine as well...
I have the 13mm ratcheting box wrench.
Did you have any kind of prep, like soaking the nuts/bolts with a Liquid Wrench like product, or just wrench away???
Thanks,
Rob
p.s.- I've been told its more like 40-50 hp gain...

My bolts were easily removed. I'd estimate torque of less than 20 ft/lbs. Once loose, I just scuffed some knuckles twisting them out by hand. And I think I got the rotation wrong for getting the header out. To pull it out the left side (and put it back in), the header rotates clockwise with the 4 inlets turned down.

It really is an easy-ish job. I used a little RTV gasket material to stick the new gasket onto the header to ease installation. If you have an extra set of hands you can probably get it done without the RTV. I'm still a few bolts away from done, but the garage is hot as an oven and I'm in no hurry.

Removing the top bolt from the alt and moving it aside may make it a little easier...

dave wrote:Removing the top bolt from the alt and moving it aside may make it a little easier...

No doubt, and that was my plan if I had encountered any trouble getting the header bolts out.
But I never did.

PS: I finished the job tonight -- went back in even easier than it came out. I wish I had done it sooner. Old header had a hole with a weld job, leaving a small obstruction in the inside, and ... a smaller hole.

Just got mine out. Your example got me started because it sounded easy. Unfortunately mine would not come out the side but it did come out the top. Alternator (new style),heat shield, plug wires, water tank, exhaust pipe, oil breather tank removed.
This must be worth at least 25 HP.

GregCirillo wrote:

IceRacer wrote:Greg,
I've got to pull mine as well...
I have the 13mm ratcheting box wrench.
Did you have any kind of prep, like soaking the nuts/bolts with a Liquid Wrench like product, or just wrench away???
Thanks,
Rob
p.s.- I've been told its more like 40-50 hp gain...

My bolts were easily removed. I'd estimate torque of less than 20 ft/lbs. Once loose, I just scuffed some knuckles twisting them out by hand. And I think I got the rotation wrong for getting the header out. To pull it out the left side (and put it back in), the header rotates clockwise with the 4 inlets turned down.

It really is an easy-ish job. I used a little RTV gasket material to stick the new gasket onto the header to ease installation. If you have an extra set of hands you can probably get it done without the RTV. I'm still a few bolts away from done, but the garage is hot as an oven and I'm in no hurry.

Careful with the silicone RTV ... it will destroy your O2 sensor if any of it burns inside the header.