Hub R&R questions.

Technical and Repair Discussions
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 9:00 pm
I'm removing my hub to service bearings and wondering what's the preferred method for separating the tie rod end from the hub. Puller? Fork? "Shock"?

Also, I pulled the left half-shaft and (not surprisingly) lost a couple of cups of trans fluid out the trans case axle hole. I've read that there's no reason to fill higher than the axle level. Is that generally accepted?
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:47 pm
I have one of these things

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7503-Outer-Ti ... 61&sr=1-23

I think it was a HF purchase back when and was like 15-20 bucks.

Was the axle beat up too? Or just the wheel bearing?
Joe Cooley
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 7:12 am
It looks like all the damage was to the bearing. The retaining ring(s?) were shredded and a few ball bearings were "liberated" from the hub. The axle/CV joints look great.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 7:58 am
I promote using only 2 quarts to fill the transaxle. We have done that for years with no problems. It does two things, there is less frothing and drag inside the box and secondly you can pull the C/V without spilling a drop.

The "retaining rings" you refer to in the bearings would be called ball cages.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:49 am
GregCirillo wrote:I'm removing my hub to service bearings and wondering what's the preferred method for separating the tie rod end from the hub. Puller? Fork? "Shock"?

Also, I pulled the left half-shaft and (not surprisingly) lost a couple of cups of trans fluid out the trans case axle hole. I've read that there's no reason to fill higher than the axle level. Is that generally accepted?


I have found that many times even with a fork or puller, a quick hit on the upright arm at the tie rod is what works.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 9:34 am
specdoc wrote:I promote using only 2 quarts to fill the transaxle. We have done that for years with no problems. It does two things, there is less frothing and drag inside the box and secondly you can pull the C/V without spilling a drop.

The "retaining rings" you refer to in the bearings would be called ball cages.


By the time the ball cages fell on my garage floor, they looked like mangled rings! And a couple of ball bearings looked more like little, steel molars.

Thx for the advice, as always.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 9:56 am
GregCirillo wrote:
specdoc wrote:I promote using only 2 quarts to fill the transaxle. We have done that for years with no problems. It does two things, there is less frothing and drag inside the box and secondly you can pull the C/V without spilling a drop.

The "retaining rings" you refer to in the bearings would be called ball cages.


By the time the ball cages fell on my garage floor, they looked like mangled rings! And a couple of ball bearings looked more like little, steel molars.

Thx for the advice, as always.


You probably need to make sure the hub isn't damaged.
Dave Harriman
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:21 pm
Greg -
When you put it back together, make sure to use Anti-Seize on the toe-link end where it goes into the hub. I have been doing that for years, and have no difficulty getting it apart with a moderate hit with a plastic hammer.
Dan

Formerly Teamwork Motorsports #99, Chassis #460
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 9:58 pm
Bearings are in (first time I've seen them). How the he!! do you pack these things with grease?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 10:26 pm
GregCirillo wrote:Bearings are in (first time I've seen them). How the he!! do you pack these things with grease?

You have to disassemble them. the inner race is split, lay the bearing on the side a bench, insert a screwdriver into the space between the two halves of the race, give it a light hit so it moves the races apart, then pry gently. Try not to break the plastic thing that holds them together, and pull the races out. You're likely to be impressed by low quality and a small amount of grease. Clean it out and out in good stuff.
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