Prior owner of my car used worm clamps to hold the threaded coilover collars at the desired height. Is that the standard way?

I had my car set up after some damage repair, and brought it back from the shop, popped it up on my lift and had it running for a while. Turns out the worm clamps were not replaced and with the suspension unloaded, aided by the vibration of the engine, the collars (at least the rear) jiggled themselves down at least 6-8 turns. So much for the setup!

Greg,

I use hose clamps and racer tape on the hose clamps. Those who know me might fairly observe I'm a bit compulsive. I've found that on a bumpy track especially, the spring collars will rotate enough over the course of a weekend event to alter the corner weights and ride heights noticeably. When I used hose clamps alone, sometimes the collars would loosen a little or, even worse, tighten themselves up. Keep in mind that when a coil spring compresses and extends, it rotates at its ends. The spring rotating can cause the collar to rotate, but in my expereince not always the same amount in both directions.

Michael Hausknecht (NE#60)

interesting. Can't say i've had the same experience. To make it easy i always paint one of the recesses in the threaded collars and align it with the center of the Penske label. So when i go up or down on the adjustment i have a consistent reference. Never noticed them coming back from a weekend - or two - which any movement.

steve kramer wrote:interesting. Can't say i've had the same experience. To make it easy i always paint one of the recesses in the threaded collars and align it with the center of the Penske label. So when i go up or down on the adjustment i have a consistent reference. Never noticed them coming back from a weekend - or two - which any movement.

I think I "inflamed" the issue by running the car on a lift. The springs were unloaded and the collars were pretty much free to rotate. In other coilovers I've had, there were TWO threaded collars on each shock, and you could just jam them against each other.

Yes, two threaded collars avoids the problem. Too bad they aren't legal for us. Nor shims that slide nicely on each other, or those nifty Hyperco hydraulic spring perches.

Michael Hausknecht (NE#60)

Never had issues with the spring perches rotating on their own, but makes sense if you run them unloaded and they are very loose. You could try a little locktite on the threads to create some resistance while still being able to make minor adjustments.

The problem area I've most seen with the shocks is upper mount loosening up on the rod ; that definitely needs lock-titing as I've had one nearly rotate off (fortunately, showed up when I went to adjust one of the shocks and I thought the adjuster broke off because I could see it anymore!)

I never had this problem (that I know of!), but I can see how it could happen at the front. The rear, not so much. Even fully unloaded, my rear perches are still under some spring tension which should keep them from rotating. Hose clamps seem like a PITA - especially when one wants to make a quick adjustment in the hot pits.

This might be illegal, but: drill and tap the collars for a soft-tipped set screw? Tighten it enough to prevent vibrational rotation, but not so tight that you can't rotate them when you want to.

Funny that you can put locktite, tape or a worm clamp on the coilovers, but NO you can't put two collars on there!

I use hose clamps. I have noticed that even in the trailer towing a long distance with the car bouncing up and down they will back down. Especially if the nuts run real free on the threaded shock (easily moved my hand with the spring unloaded or lightly loaded). If you are using hose clamps you need to make sure to snung them up to the nut as you are tightening them to insure the added friction of the clamp will inhibit rotation.

bob gardner wrote:I use hose clamps. I have noticed that even in the trailer towing a long distance with the car bouncing up and down they will back down. Especially if the nuts run real free on the threaded shock (easily moved my hand with the spring unloaded or lightly loaded). If you are using hose clamps you need to make sure to snung them up to the nut as you are tightening them to insure the added friction of the clamp will inhibit rotation.

I knew I was screwed when I had the car on the lift, running, and saw the hose clamps bouncing around on the bottom of the shocks. I watched one of the collars moving just from the vibration. Scales anyone?