Doing an engine/transmission pull.

Technical and Repair Discussions
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:24 pm
steve kramer wrote:that one is cheap, but you will like this one better:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-63423/overview/


I must confess, we also went the big bucks route
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Dave Harriman
"It looks crazy, I understand. But, we only live once and I am going to give it a good try." - Alex Zanardi
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:29 pm
The MSR hoist with chain is hard to beat for portability.

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Dave Harriman
"It looks crazy, I understand. But, we only live once and I am going to give it a good try." - Alex Zanardi
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:17 pm
I found one of the bolt holes (rear/right). What's the best place to hook up on the opposite corner (left side, forward near header)?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 10:16 pm
You should use the factory lift hooks:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 4:23 pm
Thx! I think I've found a source for the hooks (prior owner).

Last question (for today). The 29/30 step Mumm write up in both cases (Engine Only and Engine+Transaxle) describes the transmission being separated from the engine before removal, and being pulled out separately. If you're removing the drivetrain to service the transmission, is that how you do it (2 parts) or would it be possible/preferable to remove the drivetrain as a unit and separate the transaxle afterward?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 5:11 pm
You don't have a choice here. It will not come out as an assembled unit.
Steve Fenske
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 5:33 pm
specdoc wrote:You don't have a choice here. It will not come out as an assembled unit.


Thanks, all.

I'll be sure to set up a video camera as a "How-To." The out-takes will provide some good comedy for the forum.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:18 pm
I use a cheap chain fall ($50) suspended from the ceiling by a 18" long double nutted 3/4 inch piece of running thread close to the wall, maybe 5 ft away and have yet to see a rafter bow picking up the whole back end.
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