Vinyl wrap or paint

Technical and Repair Discussions

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 10:05 pm
JBPDXOR wrote:I just reviewed a number of the videos from Dipyourcar.com.
The process looks easy but I wonder about being able to repair a larger section than they presented in a video ( repaired a wheel with small tear of about 1"). Another question is being able to vinyl over the finish or how to add a second color accent easily.
Approximate cost appears to be a basic cost in the $500.00 range and maybe a little less our size car.


I have covered my car twice. There is some investment cost in spraying equipment of around $200. Depending on how fancy you try to get 300-500 in material cost. I do one basic color. accent color wouldn't be too bad as you can mask like regular paint but I have never wanted to. My decals stick fine so I assume vinyl would stick, but not sure it's a good idea.

It's possible to fix small patches fairly easily but won't look perfect but passes the 10 ft test. The worst thing is gasoline will mare it. So you have to be careful when filling up.

I can post pics if it will help.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 8:12 am
I did a vinyl wrap on the nose of my car in a contrasting color. I also vinyl wrapped some stripes and designs on to my helmet (I was bored). 3M vinyl wrap is unbelievable material. Not like the sticker vinyl at all. You can stretch it, apply it and remove it, work out air bubbles, shape it with a heat gun, release wrinkles and folds, and it doesn't really become permanently attached until you squeegee it firmly and apply heat. For the nose, I first outline the area with vinyl 1/2 inch tape. I then applied the wrap over The area, overlapping the tape. Then had a line, formed by the edge of the vinyl tape, to use and trimming the edge of the vinyl, along the edge of the tape, with a razor blade. Took some care but it came out well. I've also used pre-cut vinyl stripes. These were the traditional sticker vinyl, which had to be applied using a water and soap solution underneath, and were much more difficult to apply neatly. The vinyl on the nose of the car has started to get chipped. For big repairs, it should be easy enough to a cut and patch an area with left over vinyl. Having used vinyl, I would recommend it for applying stripes and designs to a base paint job. I would not recommend trying to wrap an entire spec raiser ford in A piece/color. As others have said, I doubt it would stretch enough to cover the compound curves, but tickly around the front fenders.
Scott Ross
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 8:07 pm
JoshO wrote:
JBPDXOR wrote:I can post pics if it will help.


Pictures would be great
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Needs a Life!!!
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:29 am
Interesting discussion. I've read that many pro teams are now moving over to AERO Advanced Paint, which is a wrap-like film process.

http://rethinkpaint.com/

Still Learning to Type
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 11:42 pm
Bob Devol wrote:Interesting discussion. I've read that many pro teams are now moving over to AERO Advanced Paint, which is a wrap-like film process.

http://rethinkpaint.com/


It looks like the auto paint industry is going have a revolution in the next few year. Removable paint seems to be the way of the future.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:27 am
Rattle can Plasti-Dip - maybe is the ultimate low budget, removable paint. Do in the driveway.

Cheers - Jim
When I used to fly, I was called an AVIATOR.
Now, I race cars. So, am I called a PAVIATOR?

Still Learning to Type
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 10:22 am
Martinracing98 wrote:
JoshO wrote:
JBPDXOR wrote:I can post pics if it will help.


Pictures would be great


Here is my car with base coat of black with dipyourcar.com clear topcoat with silver alloy pearls:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6p57 ... 25jb1NJekk
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6p57 ... mF6YnZndzQ

Here is black base with same clear topcoat with "world rally blue" pearls:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6p57 ... 2RHQmxQYUU

Both cost around $400 dollars to do.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:07 pm
Thanks for the pics. By base coat, do you mean the car was conventionally painted black with the dip over it? or did u use dip black as the base? How long does it last? Does it cover ugly stuff better than conventional paint?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 5:22 pm
steve kramer wrote:Thanks for the pics. By base coat, do you mean the car was conventionally painted black with the dip over it? or did u use dip black as the base? How long does it last? Does it cover ugly stuff better than conventional paint?


5-8 coats of black plastidip. 3-5 coats of clear top coat with pearls mixed in. Only about 15 minutes between coats depending on conditions.


Its pretty durable but will scuff easier than normal paint. You have to be more careful with body panels when taking them on and off. You can easily get one season out of it. If you are not really picky, can go two seasons depending on how bad rock chips are.

The finish is either flat or satin. That helps hide some body imperfections but cracks and bumps will show. I would say it does hide better than a normal paint job.

The is a special spray that you can get from dipyourcar.com called dip spray that you can wipe on regularly to keep it most resistant from scratches and feel smoother. Plastidip has a rubber feel to it without the spray. It can not be waxed.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 10:59 pm
thanks for the reply. I'm thinking about trying it.
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